Should a Wine List Educate or Merely Flatter You?

如何看葡萄酒酒單？

ERIC ASIMOV 報道 2012年10月04日

Julie Glassberg for The New York Times

「嘗嘗這個！」 布魯克林「羅馬人」餐廳的酒水總管麗·坎貝爾倒了一杯瓦爾波利塞拉葡萄酒。

想像一下你第一次去一家餐廳的情景，可以是法國的、希臘的、西班牙的，甚至是美國的餐廳，總之是來自盛產葡萄酒的國家。
你打開菜單，可能會讓服務生介紹某些菜品以幫你做決定。然後，你看着酒水單，裡面有幾十種選擇，可全是該國特有的酒水，沒有一種常見酒。你怎麼辦？

按圖放大

Julie Glassberg for The New York Times

麗的酒水單的一角。「我們的顧客都是願意嘗試新鮮事物的人，」她說。

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• 不種葡萄，也能品到好酒

A. 閉上眼睛，手指到哪個，就點哪個。
B. 攤開雙手，表示放棄，點了一瓶啤酒（前提是你認識其中一款啤酒）。
C. 詢問酒侍或者熟悉酒單的服務生。
D. 大罵自命不凡的酒侍，誰讓他做了這麼一個叫人看不懂的酒單，好像他的使命就是教育顧客。笨蛋！
如果你是《紐約郵報》的餐廳評論員史蒂夫·庫左(Steve Cuozzo)，你肯定會選D。在他最近一個名叫“酸葡萄”的專欄里，他對那些有着“完全看不懂”的酒水單的餐廳大發牢騷。他提到兩家希臘餐廳，其酒水單幾乎全是希臘語。（你想不到吧：他不喜歡希臘葡萄酒。）
他對紐約布魯克林區威廉斯堡的雷納德(Reynard)餐廳的全法文酒單大加嘲諷。他寫道，差不多有200多種酒，他愣是一種也不認識。
相比之下，他對布魯咖啡館(Café Boulud)的酒單大加讚賞：在幾百種非常昂貴的酒中，有來自十幾個國家的大約60種酒，售價僅60美元，甚至更低。
庫左的長篇檄文好像是一隻胖蟲子掉進了一杯上等伊湖樂極(Irouléguy)白葡萄酒里。美國各地的博主和讀者對他的立場議論紛紛。很多人譴責他愚昧無知。有一個博主稱讚庫左表達了“沒有好工作或者沒有受到良好教育的人”的心聲，他的稱讚有可能是真誠的。
不管怎樣，庫左的嘲罵引出了一些重要問題，這些問題關係到餐廳身份的核心。餐廳有義務提供適合每個顧客的食物嗎？還是他們有權利不妥協，堅持自己的特色，即使會讓某些顧客覺得難以理解？
一般來說，這個問題是針對食物的。大多數餐廳都會為不敢冒險嘗試新菜的顧客提供幾樣常見的菜，比如牛排和三文魚，不管這跟大廚的創意偏好有多麼衝突。但是大多數餐廳還是有自己的底線的。
例如，很多優秀的意大利餐廳不允許顧客將麵條和醬料隨意混搭，不管顧客怎樣懇求。張戴維（David Chang, 韓裔美籍名廚）建議素食者不要輕易嘗試他的菜，因為它們以豬肉和鴨肉為主。“父親的辦公室”(Father’s Office)是一家洛杉磯的小餐館，它以禁止“替換、更改或減少”其漢堡包的配料（包括番茄醬）而聞名。
餐館無意惹惱顧客。即使是最驕傲、最嚴格的大廚，也希望你跟他品味相投，而不是不歡而散。我珍惜那些只要能用自己的方式取得成功就不一味迎合顧客的餐館。
對酒水來說，也是一樣的問題。餐館是應該提供連最保守的顧客都知道的酒水，還是應該提供反映餐館自身特色的酒水，不管這些酒水多麼不常見？
這世界還是由普通人和大眾市場主導的。大多數餐館，包括紐約的餐館，都遵循人們對食物和酒水的主流看法。單只為了這一點，我們也應該讚美那些離經叛道的餐廳，而不是把它們當做威脅。如果一家非主流餐廳讓你感到不快，還有很多更傳統的餐廳等着你。
即使是那些看起來相當難懂的酒水單，如果你仔細研究，也會發現它似曾相識。在布魯克林格林堡有一家意大利餐廳，名叫“羅馬人”(Roman’s)。它是雷納德餐廳的姐妹餐廳，提供很多不常見的意大利葡萄酒。
你可以點一杯弗蘭克·康納利森(Frank Cornelissen)在西西里島埃特納火山的酒庄釀造的玫瑰葡萄酒。它一定會讓你大吃一驚，但也會讓你倍感愉悅，因為它能帶來極致體驗。如果這太冒 險，也許一杯來自皮埃蒙特大區的巴洛特(Burlotto)內比奧羅(nebbiolo)黑紅葡萄酒適合你。它絕不是普通的葡萄酒，但也並非無人知曉。
酒單上的酒大致都是這個樣子。你很可能不會在超市裡找到任何一款酒單上的酒，但是它們比超市裡的酒要好得多，即使其釀造商鮮為人知。
這個酒單的製作者是麗·坎貝爾(Lee Campbell)。雷納德餐廳的法語酒單也是她製作的。她對紅酒業了如指掌：她干過零售，也做過進口，在東漢普頓區和哈萊姆區都倒過酒。她絕不是那種藐 視顧客的人。庫左在評論一篇博客時，談到“缺席的酒侍”，說當時酒侍“也許外出赴宴了，也許上電視做節目了，要不就是人間蒸發了”。麗絕對沒有那樣做。
“我總是努力向顧客介紹那些雖不常見但口味極佳的紅酒，”她說：“說句公道話，我們的顧客都是願意嘗試新鮮事物的人。”
在一家帶有布魯克林新浪潮氛圍的餐廳點大眾化的酒水，就像看到女服務生身上有紋身都要表示震驚一樣。約克維爾的希臘餐廳應該提供波爾多葡萄酒和納帕 谷蘇維濃(sauvignon)白葡萄酒嗎？在我看來，前提是，酒水總監選擇這些酒是為了體現該餐廳的風格，而不是為了照顧普通顧客。一家希臘餐廳的酒水 單全是希臘語，對我來說不是問題，只要服務生能很好地回答我的問題就行。
甚至連雷納德餐廳的酒水單也比乍看上去的更加大眾。上面有香檳酒、密斯卡岱(Muscadet)、沃萊白葡萄酒(Vouvray)、夏布利酒(Chablis)、勃艮第紅葡萄酒和博若萊紅葡萄酒。這些難道不是常見的酒？當然，沒有波爾多葡萄酒，也許這才是庫左要找的酒。
有一點他說的是對的。提供不常見的酒水的餐廳，應該能夠用簡單的話解釋和說明一下酒水的特點。他認為這樣的餐廳很少，但是根據我的經驗，在過去的 20年里，酒水服務已經極大改善了。大多數提供非常規酒水的餐廳都會這樣做，因為它們喜歡這些酒，也喜歡談論這些酒，有時候甚至談得過多了。
關鍵是顧客能夠自由地發問，而且如果他們發現服務生的回答快變成技術講座的時候，可以堅決要求得到簡單的回答。
不只是鮮為人知的地方產的葡萄酒會引起這樣的不確定性。全是美國酒的酒水單有時也讓人迷惑。我喜歡布魯克林卡羅爾花園(Carroll Gardens)的“酪乳海峽”(Buttermilk Channel)餐廳的美國酒水單。但是如果你點了斯科列姆(Scholium Project)葡萄園2009年產的“酒窖中的王子”(Prince in His Caves)，本以為端上來的是一杯典型的加利福尼亞蘇維濃白葡萄酒，可實際上端上來的酒渾濁而略帶橙色，你一定深感意外。
很多人極其不喜歡那種酒，也有很多人很喜歡它，這就很棒。我不迷戀它，但是我更喜歡一個包容的世界和一份能接納斯科列姆葡萄酒的酒單。可怕的不是陌生的葡萄酒，而是人們對陌生葡萄酒的恐懼。

本文最初發表於2012年8月7日。
翻譯：王艷

The Pour

Should a Wine List Educate or Merely Flatter You?

By ERIC ASIMOV October 04, 2012

美食与美酒

如何看葡萄酒酒单？

ERIC ASIMOV 报道 2012年10月04日

PICTURE yourself on a first visit to a new restaurant. It could be French, Greek, Spanish, even American, specializing in the cuisine of any country with a wide-ranging wine industry.

想象一下你第一次去一家餐厅的情景，可以是法国的、希腊的、西班牙的，甚至是美国的餐厅，总之是来自盛产葡萄酒的国家。

You place your order, maybe asking a waiter to describe some dishes to help decide. Then you look at the wine list, dozens of choices all consistent with the restaurant’s ethnicity. Not one bottle seems familiar. What do you do?

你打开菜单，可能会让服务生介绍某些菜品以帮你做决定。然后，你看着酒水单，里面有几十种选择，可全是该国特有的酒水，没有一种常见酒。你怎么办？

A) Close your eyes, point randomly to a bottle and order it.

A. 闭上眼睛，手指到哪个，就点哪个。

Julie Glassberg for The New York Times

“尝尝这个！” 布鲁克林“罗马人”餐厅的酒水总管丽·坎贝尔倒了一杯瓦尔波利塞拉葡萄酒。

B) Throw up your hands and order a beer (assuming you recognize any of those choices).

B. 摊开双手，表示放弃，点了一瓶啤酒（前提是你认识其中一款啤酒）。

C) Ask for advice from the sommelier or a server familiar with the list.

C. 询问酒侍或者熟悉酒单的服务生。

D) Rant about pretentious sommeliers who create lists of esoteric wines under the deluded notion that their mission is to educate customers. Dummies!

D. 大骂自命不凡的酒侍，谁让他做了这么一个叫人看不懂的酒单，好像他的使命就是教育顾客。笨蛋！

If you are Steve Cuozzo, the restaurant critic at The New York Post, you chose option D. In a recent column headlined “Sour Grapes,” Mr. Cuozzo railed against restaurants with wine lists that he described as “100 percent inscrutable.” He mentioned a couple of Greek restaurants with lists that were almost all Greek. (Surprise: he doesn’t care for Greek wines.)

如果你是《纽约邮报》的餐厅评论员史蒂夫·库左(Steve Cuozzo)，你肯定会选D。在他最近一个名叫“酸葡萄”的专栏里，他对那些有着“完全看不懂”的酒水单的餐厅大发牢骚。他提到两家希腊餐厅，其酒水单几乎全是希腊语。（你想不到吧：他不喜欢希腊葡萄酒。）

He reserved particular scorn for the entirely French list at Reynard in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where, he wrote, he didn’t recognize a single bottle among almost 200 choices.

他对纽约布鲁克林区威廉斯堡的雷纳德(Reynard)餐厅的全法文酒单大加嘲讽。他写道，差不多有200多种酒，他愣是一种也不认识。

By contrast, he cited the wine list at Café Boulud as admirable for offering, among hundreds of very expensive bottles, a section of 60 or so wines from a dozen countries, all $60 and under.

相比之下，他对布鲁咖啡馆(Café Boulud)的酒单大加赞赏：在几百种非常昂贵的酒中，有来自十几个国家的大约60种酒，售价仅60美元，甚至更低。

Mr. Cuozzo’s tirade landed like a fat bug in a glass of fine Irouléguy blanc. Bloggers and readers from coast to coast debated his stand, many denouncing him for know-nothingism and ignorance. One blogger, possibly sincerely, praised Mr. Cuozzo for expressing the view of those who are “not well employed or well educated.”

库左的长篇檄文好像是一只胖虫子掉进了一杯上等伊湖乐极(Irouléguy)白葡萄酒里。美国各地的博主和读者对他的立场议论纷纷。很多人谴责他愚昧无知。有一个博主称赞库左表达了“没有好工作或者没有受到良好教育的人”的心声，他的称赞有可能是真诚的。

Regardless, Mr. Cuozzo’s diatribe raised crucial questions that go to the core of a restaurant’s identity. Are restaurants obliged to offer something for everybody? Or do they have the right to stay uncompromisingly true to a vision that may strike some as arcane?

不管怎样，库左的嘲骂引出了一些重要问题，这些问题关系到餐厅身份的核心。餐厅有义务提供适合每个顾客的食物吗？还是他们有权利不妥协，坚持自己的特色，即使会让某些顾客觉得难以理解？

Ordinarily this question is addressed to the food. Most restaurants, no matter how it might affront a chef’s creative bent, offer a few safe landing places for less adventurous customers, like steak or salmon. But most have their limits.

一般来说，这个问题是针对食物的。大多数餐厅都会为不敢冒险尝试新菜的顾客提供几样常见的菜，比如牛排和三文鱼，不管这跟大厨的创意偏好有多么冲突。但是大多数餐厅还是有自己的底线的。

Many good Italian restaurants refuse, for example, to allow customers to mix and match pastas and sauces, no matter how they may entreat. David Chang advises vegetarians not to risk his pork- and duck-centric menus. Father’s Office, a Los Angeles pub, famously permits “no substitutions, modifications, alterations or deletions” to its hamburgers. That includes ketchup.

例如，很多优秀的意大利餐厅不允许顾客将面条和酱料随意混搭，不管顾客 怎样恳求。张戴维（David Chang, 韩裔美籍名厨）建议素食者不要轻易尝试他的菜，因为它们以猪肉和鸭肉为主。“父亲的办公室”(Father’s Office)是一家洛杉矶的小餐馆，它以禁止“替换、更改或减少”其汉堡包的配料（包括番茄酱）而闻名。

Restaurants are not intent on annoying people. Even the proudest, most rigid chef wants you to share a vision, not walk away unhappy. I treasure restaurants that do not pander as long as they succeed on their own terms.

餐馆无意惹恼顾客。即使是最骄傲、最严格的大厨，也希望你跟他品味相投，而不是不欢而散。我珍惜那些只要能用自己的方式取得成功就不一味迎合顾客的餐馆。

The same questions apply to wine. Must a restaurant offer bottles that even the most timid diner will recognize? Or can a wine list reflect a restaurant’s best conception of itself, no matter how unconventional?

对酒水来说，也是一样的问题。餐馆是应该提供连最保守的顾客都知道的酒水，还是应该提供反映餐馆自身特色的酒水，不管这些酒水多么不常见？

The world is dominated by the ordinary and the mass-market. Most restaurants, even in New York City, conform to a mainstream vision of food and wine. For that reason alone we should celebrate the departures, not feel threatened by them. If a restaurant is so unorthodox that you feel discomfited, plenty of more conventional choices beckon.

这世界还是由普通人和大众市场主导的。大多数餐馆，包括纽约的餐馆，都遵循人们对食物和酒水的主流看法。单只为了这一点，我们也应该赞美那些离经叛道的餐厅，而不是把它们当做威胁。如果一家非主流餐厅让你感到不快，还有很多更传统的餐厅等着你。

Even restaurants with wine lists that appear to be esoteric are, on closer examination, tethered to the familiar. Roman’s, an Italianesque sibling of Reynard in Fort Greene, Brooklyn, offers a list with many unusual Italian choices.

即使是那些看起来相当难懂的酒水单，如果你仔细研究，也会发现它似曾相识。在布鲁克林格林堡有一家意大利餐厅，名叫“罗马人”(Roman’s)。它是雷纳德餐厅的姐妹餐厅，提供很多不常见的意大利葡萄酒。

You can order a rosé from Frank Cornelissen, who makes wine on Mount Etna in Sicily, that may shock you. It may also delight you. It’s polarizing. If it seems risky, a nebbiolo rosé from Burlotto in the Piedmont might be just the thing. It’s by no means an ordinary wine, but not unrecognizable.

你可以点一杯弗兰克·康纳利森(Frank Cornelissen)在西西里岛埃特纳火山的酒庄酿造的玫瑰葡萄酒。它一定会让你大吃一惊，但也会让你倍感愉悦，因为它能带来极致体验。如果这太冒 险，也许一杯来自皮埃蒙特大区的巴洛特(Burlotto)内比奥罗(nebbiolo)黑红葡萄酒适合你。它绝不是普通的葡萄酒，但也并非无人知晓。

The entire list is like that. You most likely won’t find any of the wines in a supermarket, but it has far better versions of those supermarket wines, even if from little-known producers.

酒单上的酒大致都是这个样子。你很可能不会在超市里找到任何一款酒单上的酒，但是它们比超市里的酒要好得多，即使其酿造商鲜为人知。

The list was put together by Lee Campbell, who also did the French list at Reynard. She has worked all over the wine business, in retail and for importers, pouring wine in East Hampton and in Harlem. She’s the last person who would ever seek to belittle customers, and certainly isn’t “off junketing, doing TV or otherwise M.I.A.” as Mr. Cuozzo put it, discussing absentee sommeliers in his comments on one blog.

这个酒单的制作者是丽·坎贝尔(Lee Campbell)。雷纳德餐厅的法语酒单也是她制作的。她对红酒业了如指掌：她干过零售，也做过进口，在东汉普顿区和哈莱姆区都倒过酒。她绝不是那种藐 视顾客的人。库左在评论一篇博客时，谈到“缺席的酒侍”，说当时酒侍“也许外出赴宴了，也许上电视做节目了，要不就是人间蒸发了”。丽绝对没有那样做。

“I’m always going to try to introduce people to obscure wines that are good values,” she said. “To be fair, we have an adventurous demographic.”

“我总是努力向顾客介绍那些虽不常见但口味极佳的红酒，”她说：“说句公道话，我们的顾客都是愿意尝试新鲜事物的人。”

Demanding mainstream wines at a restaurant with a new wave Brooklyn ambience is like expressing shock that the waitress is tattooed. Should a Greek restaurant in Yorkville offer Bordeaux and Napa sauvignon blanc? On one condition, in my opinion: if the wine director believed that these wines expressed the ethos of the restaurant, not because they were recognizable to the mainstream customer. I have no problem with an entirely Greek list at a Greek restaurant, as long as somebody can answer questions intelligently.

在一家带有布鲁克林新浪潮氛围的餐厅点大众化的酒水，就像看到女服务生 身上有纹身都要表示震惊一样。约克维尔的希腊餐厅应该提供波尔多葡萄酒和纳帕谷苏维浓(sauvignon)白葡萄酒吗？在我看来，前提是，酒水总监选择 这些酒是为了体现该餐厅的风格，而不是为了照顾普通顾客。一家希腊餐厅的酒水单全是希腊语，对我来说不是问题，只要服务生能很好地回答我的问题就行。

Even the list at Reynard is more familiar than it might seem at first. It has Champagne and Muscadet, Vouvray and Chablis, red Burgundy and Beaujolais. Are these really obscure wines? No Bordeaux, though, which perhaps was Mr. Cuozzo’s real objection.

甚至连雷纳德餐厅的酒水单也比乍看上去的更加大众。上面有香槟酒、密斯卡岱(Muscadet)、沃莱白葡萄酒(Vouvray)、夏布利酒(Chablis)、勃艮第红葡萄酒和博若莱红葡萄酒。这些难道不是常见的酒？当然，没有波尔多葡萄酒，也许这才是库左要找的酒。

He did make one good point. Restaurants with a list of unfamiliar wines must be able to discuss and explain the list in simple terms. He thinks those restaurants are rare, but in my experience wine service has improved exponentially in the last 20 years. Most restaurants that offer unconventional lists do so because they love the wines and love to talk about them, sometimes too much.

有一点他说的是对的。提供不常见的酒水的餐厅，应该能够用简单的话解释 和说明一下酒水的特点。他认为这样的餐厅很少，但是根据我的经验，在过去的20年里，酒水服务已经极大改善了。大多数提供非常规酒水的餐厅都会这样做，因 为它们喜欢这些酒，也喜欢谈论这些酒，有时候甚至谈得过多了。

The crucial point for consumers is to feel free to ask questions, and to insist on simple answers if the reply seems to verge on becoming a technical lecture.

关键是顾客能够自由地发问，而且如果他们发现服务生的回答快变成技术讲座的时候，可以坚决要求得到简单的回答。

It’s not just wines from obscure places that can arouse uncertainty. Even all-American lists can be puzzling. I love the American list at Buttermilk Channel in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. Yet if you were to order Scholium Project’s 2009 Prince in His Caves expecting a typical California sauvignon blanc, you would be shocked by the cloudy, orange-tinged wine in the glass.

不只是鲜为人知的地方产的葡萄酒会引起这样的不确定性。全是美国酒的酒 水单有时也让人迷惑。我喜欢布鲁克林卡罗尔花园(Carroll Gardens)的“酪乳海峡”(Buttermilk Channel)餐厅的美国酒水单。但是如果你点了斯科列姆(Scholium Project)葡萄园2009年产的“酒窖中的王子”(Prince in His Caves)，本以为端上来的是一杯典型的加利福尼亚苏维浓白葡萄酒，可实际上端上来的酒浑浊而略带橙色，你一定深感意外。

Just as many people will hate that wine as like it, and that’s great. I’m not crazy about it, but I far prefer a world and a list that embrace Scholium Project. The enemy isn’t obscure wines or challenging lists. It’s fear of wine.

很多人极其不喜欢那种酒，也有很多人很喜欢它，这就很棒。我不迷恋它，但是我更喜欢一个包容的世界和一份能接纳斯科列姆葡萄酒的酒单。可怕的不是陌生的葡萄酒，而是人们对陌生葡萄酒的恐惧。

本文最初发表于2012年8月7日。
翻译：王艳

chateau wine

In the 16th century, the French landowner Michel de Montaigne retired to his chateau to write down and publish his thoughts and inadvertently invented the essay.




British-based pawnbroker, borro.com, recently lent $120,000 in exchange for 128 bottles of Chateau d’Yquem, which had an estimated worth of $250,000.
英國當鋪borro.com 最近就用估計價值約為25萬美元的128瓶伊肯堡名酒當抵押，借出了12萬美元。

château[châ・teau]

• 発音記号[ʃætóu | –]
• 
  

[名]（複〜s, 〜x 〔-z〕）

1 （フランスの）城；（フランスの貴族の）大邸宅, 館.

2 ((しばしばC-))（フランスのBordeaux地方の）ぶどう園.

［フランス語. △CASTLE］

chateau wine

[U]シャトーワイン：フランスBordeaux地方の特定のぶどう園で製造される.

 

 

 美銷歐葡萄酒掛名「酒莊」？法酒商反彈 批此舉欺騙消費者
〔編譯魏國金／綜合布魯塞爾24日外電報導〕歐盟應美國葡萄酒業者要求，提議會員國同意授權美方在出口至歐洲的葡萄酒酒瓶上標明「酒莊」（chateau）一詞。該案引起波爾多葡萄酒業者反彈，警告此舉不啻於「欺騙消費者」。
須來自單一莊園 才能掛名
目前標有「酒莊」的美國酒不能在歐盟會員國內銷售，因歐盟規定，「酒莊」葡萄酒必須來自單一莊園。
美要求解禁 尚未議決
歐盟27個會員國的農業部長原訂25日齊聚布魯塞爾，針對變更相關規範進行投票。但在歐盟執委會農業執委喬洛許24日與法國農業部長勒佛爾會面後，已排除立即做下裁定的可能。一名消息來源透露，25日將持續進行商討，而不會對該議題票決。
勒 佛爾坦承︰「法國特別堅守『酒莊』的名號，因為這對我們有特殊意義，但其他國家感受沒那麼深。我們的談判很艱困。」該議題在法國波爾多地區格外敏感，波爾 多葡萄酒協會（CIVB）主席豪薩特說︰「酒莊對我們來說，意味在單一莊園生產的酒，而美國的定義極寬鬆，若因貿易談判放棄此個原則，將令人遺憾。」
法 國波爾多酒莊聯盟（FGVB）主席加彭表示︰「美國人可能取自各地來的葡萄製造『酒莊』酒，價格當然便宜很多，而消費者可能抱持我方定義所代表的品質，購 買『酒莊』酒，結果買到的並非如此。」他強調，「酒莊」代表著對數百年傳統及品質的尊重，美方的要求「將完全敗壞、掏空相關意義」。
去年，美國葡萄酒中約34%出口至歐盟，該價值達4億7800萬美元，然而歐盟輸美葡萄酒價值站上22億美元，打上「酒莊」的頂級酒行情十分看俏。美國製酒產業企圖消除貿易障礙，以進一步推升外銷。

“雜類”葡萄酒的獨特魅力The Unique Charms Of 'Miscellaneous Wines'

“雜類”葡萄酒的獨特魅力The Unique Charms Of 'Miscellaneous Wines'

F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal, Styling by Anne Cardenas

從 左至右依次為﹕奧斯特塔格莊園希爾瓦娜老籐幹白﹔2010年Jean-Charles Girard-Madoux酒莊春寧葡萄酒﹔2010年Bruno Lupin Cuvee du Pepe薩瓦弗朗日胡賽特葡萄酒﹔2010年Dr. Frank Rkatsiteli白羽葡萄酒﹔2011年Terre Bianche Riviera Ligure di Ponente皮加托葡萄酒。

大

多數酒單都根據熱門產區或是葡萄的品種對葡萄酒加以分類﹐但是酒單的末尾常常還會再加上一類酒：它囊括了不易被歸為其中某一類的葡萄酒﹐常被稱作“雜類葡萄酒”(Miscellaneous Wines)（有些人也許會說這一名稱有些不大體面。）Most wine lists are organized according to popular regions or grapes, although an additional category is often tacked on at the end. This is where wines that won't easily fit in one place or another are assigned -- a category that's invariably and, some might say, ignominiously entitled 'Miscellaneous Wines.'

紅 葡萄酒和白葡萄酒都按照這種方式分類﹐其中白葡萄酒的分類可能還會把一些不相干的酒歸在一起﹐比如紐約白羽葡萄酒(Rkatsiteli)、利古利亞 (Liguria)的皮加托葡萄酒(Pigato)、西西里島格里洛葡萄酒(Grillo)以及法國薩瓦地區(Savoy)的一兩種雅貴葡萄酒 (Jacquere)。為什麼這些葡萄酒會被歸入一處呢？最有可能的解釋是篇幅有限──大多數餐館都不希望酒單過長﹐這常常也是考慮到了食客的想法：很少 有人會有足夠耐心來翻看一頁又一頁他們從未聽聞其名的葡萄釀制的酒或是他們不大可能遊歷的葡萄酒產區出產的酒。

發現“雜類”這個詞打動不 了顧客之後﹐一些酒水總監可能還會編造一個更討巧的名稱﹐其中“有趣味的葡萄酒”就是我經常看到的一個稱號﹐雖然波士頓No. 9 Park餐廳的酒水總監、獲得2012年度詹姆斯•比爾德葡萄酒獎項(James Beard wine program award)的凱特•西麗利耶(Cat Silirie)指出﹐這個特別的稱呼似乎暗示（除了這個名稱之外）其他所有方面都相當無趣。西麗利耶認為﹐這種分類降低了瓊瑤漿(Traminer)、 麝香葡萄(Muscat)和格德約(Godello)等葡萄酒的身價。（她本人按照產區和葡萄品種這兩種方式來設計酒單。）

我 不太確定被歸為“雜類”是否真的會拉低酒的身價﹐特別是自從我常常在這類酒中發現我想嘗試的酒之後就更不確定了。其中一個原因是價格問題﹐沒名氣沒品牌的 葡萄酒幾乎總是比名氣大、受推崇的葡萄酒便宜。如果你都不知道這種酒是什麼﹐你就不大可能花高價買它。（這當然也有例外﹐比如瓦倫蒂尼 (Valentini)出品的阿布魯佐棠比內洛白葡萄酒(Trebbiano from Abruzzo)雖不知名﹐但其價格幾乎可比勃艮第(Burgundy)一流莊園葡萄酒的價格。）

雜類葡萄酒可能是那種侍酒師非常喜歡、 感覺自己與其有特殊關聯的葡萄酒﹐特別是那些本身不大有賣點的酒。雜類葡萄酒一般也容易配餐﹐原因同上。（侍酒師極少喜歡不好配餐的葡萄酒。）儘管如此﹐ 總的說來﹐雜類葡萄酒似乎並沒有獲得廣泛關注或是大眾喜愛。這也正是我為什麼在本月早些時候開啟了一個適宜夏天的、全部都為“雜類”白葡萄酒的品酒之旅的 原因。

我首先來到了意大利和法國﹐這兩個國家出產了很多最終在酒單中被劃歸為“雜類”的葡萄酒。這一點也不讓人驚訝﹐因為單單意大利就出產數千種葡萄﹐法國擁有幾百種官方承認的品種各異的葡萄。

在 這兩個國家﹐知名的葡萄品種常常和無甚名氣的葡萄在一起培植。例如﹐在意大利的皮埃蒙特產區(Piedmont)﹐大家熟知的白葡萄品種有莫斯卡托 (Moscato)和嘉維(Gavi)﹐名氣小些的則有厄柏路絲(Erbaluce)和阿內斯(Arneis)等。法國東南部的薩瓦產區也是如此﹐雅貴和 白蒙得斯(Mondeuse Blanche)等白葡萄與更受歡迎、世界知名的灰皮諾葡萄(Pinot Gris)也是同生同長。

意大利 出產一大批世界級“雜類”白葡萄酒──實際上﹐意大利出產的不知名的白葡萄酒可以填滿一整張酒單。從北至南﹐整個意大利密集地種植著各類白葡萄﹐比如佩科 里諾(Pecorino)、阿斯品諾(Asprinio)、菲安諾(Fiano)、皮加托、卡塔拉托(Catarratto)和格里洛葡萄──這裡所列的 僅是其中的一小部分而已。得益於對本土出產的葡萄酒的興趣近來有所復蘇﹐這些葡萄成為了意大利如今最有趣味的一些葡萄酒的原料。

利古利亞 的皮加托葡萄素來是我的最愛之一。最近它被稱作是維蒙蒂諾(Vermentino)──一種更有名氣的葡萄品種──的遠親。布魯納(Bruna)或 Terre Bianche等此類頂尖釀酒商釀制的優質皮加托的口味尤為細膩﹐含有杏仁和柑橘的芳香。此外﹐優質皮加托變陳後的品質也會特別好。再往南去﹐西西里島和 坎帕尼亞(Campania)也出產大量優質的“雜類”葡萄﹐比如說口味勁爽的格里洛和具有獨特的榛子香味的菲安諾。

在法國東部﹐地處阿 爾卑斯山區的薩瓦出產的葡萄酒在近幾年開始備受歡迎﹐它們或許很快就會檔次上升跳出“雜類”的分類。薩瓦出產的葡萄酒的特色是酸度清冽適中﹐既有口感輕 盈、散發礦物香的氣味芬芳的葡萄酒（以雅貴葡萄釀成的白葡萄酒）﹐也有口感更為厚重、酒體也更加濃鬱的葡萄酒（以胡賽特(Roussette﹐亦稱阿爾迪 斯(Altesse))釀成的白葡萄酒）﹐用於配餐也非常不錯。此外﹐它們的價格也往往非常實惠﹐一些頂尖的薩瓦葡萄酒的價格比勃艮第村莊級酒的價格要便 宜﹐一瓶通常還不到20美元。薩瓦產區還沒有出現什麼大牌葡萄酒﹐現今當地最有名的釀酒商要數Pierre Boniface﹐其雅佩蒙葡萄酒(Apremont)很容易找到﹐口味也非常簡單。該地的一些釀酒商﹐比如Jean-Charles Girard-Madoux和Domaine Lupin還釀制一些口感更為複雜的葡萄酒。

當然﹐法國另外還有許多不知名的白葡萄酒。例 如﹐朗格多克(Languedoc)和羅訥地區(Rhone)出產的匹格普勒葡萄(Picpoul)便是一些口味清新簡單的白葡萄酒的原料。在阿爾薩斯地 區(Alsace)﹐莎斯拉(Chasselas)和希爾瓦娜(Sylvaner)等葡萄就種在像雷司令(Riesling)和瓊瑤漿 (Gewurztraminer)這樣的知名葡萄品種附近。莎斯拉和希爾瓦娜雖算不上特別珍貴﹐但是出自像安德烈•奧斯特塔格(Andre Ostertag)這樣的釀酒商之手的希爾瓦娜葡萄酒實際上能夠達到一種罕見的優良品質。奧斯特塔格出品的希爾瓦娜葡萄酒放在不鏽鋼桶內發酵釀制﹐具有一 種綿長的礦物香後味。其售價為22美元一瓶﹐比阿爾薩斯由知名葡萄品種釀制的葡萄酒的價格要便宜許多。

西班牙和葡萄牙也是高價值不知名葡 萄酒的產地。以西班牙加利西亞(Galicia)的佩內德斯(Penedes)和戈德拉(Godella)出產的沙雷洛葡萄(Xarel-lo)釀制的白 葡萄酒味美誘人﹐有時候可在品種豐富的酒單的雜類葡萄酒項中發現其蹤跡。葡萄牙杜羅河谷(Douro Valley)出產的高酸度白葡萄酒拉比加多(Rabigato)亦是如此。

美國是一個出產雜類葡萄酒並不多的國家（考慮到酒單上列出 “雜類”這一做法是由美國人普及開來的﹐這聽上去有些諷刺）。當然這也有例外﹐我最喜歡的兩種雜類白葡萄酒均產自紐約：其中一種是Channing Daughters出產的弗留利托凱幹白(Tocai Friulano)﹐它以弗留利葡萄釀制而成﹐口味清冽﹔另一種由Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars以在芬格湖地區(Finger Lakes)種植的俄羅斯白羽葡萄釀制﹐具有礦物香味。

我 在Paumanok Winery的老板查爾斯•馬蘇德(Charles Massoud)（長島(Long Island)唯一的白詩南(Chenin blanc)便是出自其手）的陪同下品嘗了後一種酒。馬蘇德對這種酒頗為讚賞﹐於是我問他是否會考慮也釀制白羽﹐不過他予以了否認。他說他喜歡的酒有很多 ﹐但是他不想“失去重點”。

我的雜類葡萄酒品嘗之旅可算不上有重點﹐但是我還是在其中發現了很多美味的好酒。從阿爾薩斯的希爾瓦娜到薩瓦 的阿爾迪斯﹐從皮埃蒙特的阿內斯、德國的施埃博(Scheurebe)再到利古利亞的皮加托等等﹐我發現了一些風格鮮明的葡萄酒﹐它們既獨具特色﹐定價也 非常公道。如果雜類葡萄酒換個名稱的話﹐或許會有更多人願意點它。要不改名“冒險人士之酒”或者“也許你永遠不會考慮（但應該考慮）的酒”？我倒樂意把它 們稱作“我願意一次又一次品嘗的酒”。

2010年奧斯特塔格莊園希爾瓦娜老籐幹白

售價：22美元/瓶

安 德烈•奧斯特塔格或許是阿爾薩斯地區最獨特的釀酒商之一（也是最好的酒商之一）。他根據自己獨有的分類體系（果酒、皮埃爾酒、陳年酒等等）釀制了一系列多 種多樣的葡萄酒﹐並且從希爾瓦娜等本來比較普通的葡萄品種中提煉出了特色和複雜口味。這款幹白口感極佳﹐入口極其清新鮮爽。

2010年Jean-Charles Girard-Madoux酒莊春寧葡萄酒

售價：21美元/瓶

這款產自法國薩瓦地區的白葡萄酒由雅貴葡萄釀制而成﹐其口味勁爽﹐幾乎算得上是凜冽（想想夏布利酒(Chablis)就知道了）。它產自春寧村莊（Chignin﹐薩瓦最好的品牌之一）一個小型的新興酒莊﹐是一款非常不錯的開胃酒﹐也可與大多數海鮮或者貝類搭配。

2010年Bruno Lupin Cuvee du Pepe薩瓦弗朗日胡賽特葡萄酒

售價：27美元/瓶

薩 瓦地區是多種知名白葡萄酒的產地﹐其中毫無爭議的明星葡萄酒之一便是亦稱為阿爾迪斯的胡賽特。Bruno Lupin選用的葡萄產自弗朗日（Frangy﹐薩瓦的頂級葡萄園之一）﹐口感會讓人聯想起優質白詩南。這款具有礦物香的幹白口感醇厚馥鬱﹐風味濃厚。它 給我留下了深刻印象﹐價格也非常公道。

2010年Dr. Frank Rkatsiteli白羽葡萄酒

售價：18美元/瓶

在我的記憶中﹐能夠憑借在紐約芬格湖地區種植的俄羅斯葡萄成功打響名氣的釀酒商並不多（或者沒有？）。但是﹐Dr. Frank Rkatsiteli卻在上世紀60年代做到了﹐而且效果非常好。這款幹白非常不錯﹐具有綿長的礦物香後味。

2011年Terre Bianche Riviera Ligure di Ponente皮加托葡萄酒

售價：27美元/瓶

皮加托（維蒙蒂諾的遠親）是利古利亞（意大利西北海岸一個很小的地方）最重要的釀酒葡萄﹐而Terre Bianche長期以來一直被視為是該品種葡萄的頂尖釀酒商之一。這款酒口感柔和﹐堪稱醇美﹐具有獨特的花香味。

Lettie Teague

 Both reds and whites are grouped in this manner and the latter might include such disparate offerings as a New York Rkatsiteli, a Pigato from Liguria, a Sicilian Grillo and a Jacquere or two from the Savoy region of France. Why put such wines in the same place? The most likely explanation is space -- most restaurants don't want a wine list that's overly long, often because of the wine drinkers themselves. Not many people are patient enough to leaf through page after page of grapes they've never heard of or wine regions they're unlikely to visit.

Some wine directors, finding their customers aren't moved by the word 'miscellaneous,' might craft a more flattering title: 'Interesting Wines' is one I've seen fairly often, though as Cat Silirie, wine director of No. 9 Park in Boston, pointed out, that particular rubric would seem to imply that everything else is rather dull. Ms. Silirie, who won the 2012 James Beard wine program award, found this kind of categorization 'demeaning' to wines like Traminer, Muscat and Godello. (Ms. Silirie organizes her list according to both region and grape.)

I'm not sure if the miscellaneous category is actually demeaning, especially since I often find wines listed there that I want to try. One reason is price. The obscure and uncurated will almost always cost less than the well known and well placed. If you don't know what a wine is, you're unlikely to pay a high price for it. (There are exceptions of course -- for example, an obscure Trebbiano from Abruzzo made by Valentini can cost almost as much as a premier cru Burgundy.)

A miscellaneous wine is likely to be one that a sommelier loves and feels personally connected to, especially since it's a wine that's not likely to sell itself. A miscellaneous wine often pairs well with food -- for the same reason as above. (Sommeliers rarely favor non-food-friendly wine.) And yet miscellaneous wines, broadly speaking, don't seem to get a lot of attention or love. That's one reason why I embarked on a summer-friendly all-white-miscellaneous-wine tasting earlier this month.

I turned first to Italy and France, two countries that produce a lot of wines that end up in the miscellaneous section of wine lists. This is hardly surprising since there are thousands of different varietals in Italy alone and hundreds of different grapes officially recognized in France.

In both countries, famous grapes are often cultivated alongside lesser knowns. For example, in Italy's Piedmont region there are familiar white grapes like Moscato and Gavi, as well as lesser known varietals like Erbaluce and Arneis. Ditto the Savoy region in southeastern France, where white grapes like Jacquere and Mondeuse Blanche coexist with the more popular globe-trotting Pinot Gris.

But it's Italy that offers a veritable roll call of world-class 'miscellaneous' white grapes -- in fact, the obscure whites of Italy could fill an entire wine list. From north to south, the country is thickly planted with consonant-rich grapes like Pecorino, Asprinio, Fiano, Pigato, Catarratto and Grillo, to name just a (very) few. And thanks to a recent resurgence of interest in native varietals, these grapes are responsible for some of the most interesting wines made in Italy today.

The Pigato grape grown in Liguria has long been one of my favorites. Though it's recently been named a clonal cousin of Vermentino -- a far more famous grape -- a good Pigato from a top producer like Bruna or Terre Bianche can be even more nuanced, with aromas of almonds and citrus. A good Pigato can also age particularly well. Further south, in Sicily and Campania, there are lots of terrific 'miscellaneous' grapes, like the crisp Grillo and the ancient Fiano with its distinctive scent of hazelnuts.

The wines of Savoy, in the Alpine region of eastern France, have become so popular in recent years that they may be elevated beyond the miscellaneous category sometime soon. With a characteristic bright acidity and a profile that ranges from light and flowery with mineral notes (whites made from the Jacquere grape) to a richer, more rounded profile (wines made from Roussette aka Altesse), Savoy wines also pair well with food. They also tend to be very good deals; some top Savoy wines are priced at less than a generic bottle of village Burgundy, often under $20 a bottle. There aren't any famous names (yet) though one of the best-known Savoy producers is Pierre Boniface, whose Apremont bottling is fairly easy to find -- and to drink. There are even more complex offerings from producers like Jean-Charles Girard-Madoux and Domaine Lupin.

There are plenty of other pockets of French obscurity, to be sure. For example, in Languedoc and the Rhone, the Picpoul grape is the source of some fresh, uncomplicated whites. In Alsace, grapes like Chasselas and Sylvaner are planted near well-known grapes like Riesling and Gewurztraminer. While the first two aren't particularly prized, in the hands of a great producer like Andre Ostertag, Sylvaner can actually achieve a rare measure of distinction. The Ostertag Sylvaner is a stainless-steel-fermented wine with a long, mineral finish -- and at $22 a bottle, it's a lot cheaper than wines made from more recognizable Alsace grapes.

Spain and Portugal are also fine sources for worthy obscurities. The grapes Xarel-lo in the Penedes and Godella in Galicia produce appealing whites that can sometimes be found in the miscellaneous section of wide-ranging wine lists, as can Rabigato, a high-acidity white grape grown in Portugal's Douro Valley.

The United States is the one country that doesn't produce many miscellaneous wines (a bit of an irony considering we popularized the category on wine lists). There are exceptions, of course, and two of my favorites are both produced in New York: the Channing Daughters Tocai Friulano, a crisp dry white made from a Friulian grape, and a minerally white Rkatsiteli, a Russian grape grown by Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars in the Finger Lakes district.

I tasted the latter in the company of Charles Massoud, owner of Paumanok Winery (where he makes Long Island's only Chenin Blanc). When Mr. Massoud commented favorably on the wine, I asked if he'd consider making a Rkatsiteli too. He demurred. There were many wines that he liked but he didn't want to 'lose focus.'

My miscellaneous tasting was far from focused but yielded lots of delicious results. From Alsace Sylvaner to Altesse from Savoy, Arneis in Piedmont, Scheurebe from Germany and Pigato in Liguria (and more), I found characterful wines that were as distinctive as they were well-priced. Perhaps more people would order from the miscellaneous section of a wine list if it were retitled. Wines for the Adventurous? Or Wines You'd Probably Never Consider (but Should). I'd call them Wines I'd Drink Again and Again.

OENOFILE

2010 Domaine Ostertag Les Vieilles Vignes de Sylvaner, $22

Andre Ostertag is probably one of the most unusual winemakers in Alsace (as well as one of the best). He makes a wide range of wines under his own personal classification system (Vins de Fruit, Vins de Pierre, Vins de Temps, etc.) and manages to wrest character and complexity out of an otherwise ordinary grape like Sylvaner. This wine is a zesty dry white that's wonderfully fresh and bright.

2010 Jean-Charles Girard-Madoux Chignin, $21

The Jacquere grape is the star of this beautifully crisp, almost steely (think Chablis) white from the Savoy region of France. Produced at a small, up-and-coming estate in the village of Chignin (one of the best Savoy appellations), it's a terrific aperitif or a match with most seafood or shellfish.

2010 Bruno Lupin Cuvee du Pepe Roussette de Savoie Frangy, $27

The Savoy region is home to several notable white grapes -- and one of the undisputed stars is Roussette aka Altesse. Bruno Lupin's version of the grape, produced in Frangy (one of the region's top crus), is reminiscent of a good Chenin Blanc: dry and minerally, yet rich, rather lush and full-bodied. It's an impressive wine at a very fair price.

2010 Dr. Frank Rkatsiteli, $18

There aren't many (any?) winemakers I can think of who would stake their reputations -- successfully -- on a Russian grape planted in New York's Finger Lakes. But that's what Dr. Rkatsiteli did back in the 1960s, to great effect. This is a lovely, dry white with a long, minerally finish.

2011 Terre Bianche Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato, $27

The Pigato grape (a clone of the more famous Vermentino) is the most important wine grape in Liguria (a tiny region on Italy's northwestern coast) and Terre Bianche has long been considered one of its top producers. This is a soft, almost savory white with distinctly flowery aromas.

金門高梁

金門高梁

 

圖片來源：鍾士為 在二○一二年《天下》一千大製造業排名中，名列最會賺錢企業第一位。六十歲的金門酒廠，翻新形象、也衝高獲利。甕底老酒如何再造新局？

七月中旬的傍晚，金門縣水頭碼頭映著仍然刺眼的陽光，幾團陸客正準備搭上渡輪啟程回廈門，一片鬧哄哄。在拿著大聲公的導遊唱名時，手上拎著大包小包，扶著推車上一箱箱的貢糖、牛肉乾的陸客，興奮地看向門口。
這時，「酒鄉金門城」名產店員工，推著載滿金門高粱酒的推車，開始根據訂單上的名字發放，幾乎人手一袋五十八度金門高粱酒。
「便宜啊！」多數陸客對於金門高粱酒的印象是，「比茅台便宜幾倍的好喝白酒。」
今年是金門酒廠的六十週年。在二○一二年《天下》一千大調查製造業排名中，它是最會賺錢的企業。
去年，它的營收一百三十五億台幣，創下歷史新高，獲利率高達四四．二七％。事實上，從二○○九年開始，它都保持在製造業獲利率前五名，由金門縣政府近百分之百持股，獲利完全回饋金門鄉親。
在這個距離台灣本島兩百多公里、飛機航程一個小時的地方，走在路上，能偶爾聽見老收音機裡鄧麗君的歌聲，清亮但含蓄，陪襯著金門這個富有文化底蘊的歷史古城。
金門的金雞母就是金酒，更是當地最大的雇主。一千三百名員工中，有九成以上都是金門本地人，員工流動率不到一成。
「因為是金門人，所以我有一份使命感，」金門酒廠總經理吳秋穆說。
五十四歲的吳秋穆，臉上總帶著淺淺的微笑。去年二月，他才接下這家老牌企業，一年內就帶領團隊交出漂亮的成績單。

吳秋穆眼中的金門高粱酒，是「老天爺送的禮物」。金門高粱酒在台灣的白酒市佔率高達八成以上，主要競爭優勢還是產品本身。
走進金酒的釀酒廠，濃郁香味撲鼻。一個釀酒流程需要二十四天，期間浸泡、蒸煮、拌麴、發酵、蒸餾等手續，必須要用人去感覺溫度的變化、翻動。廠長黃延慶說，「一定要用手工，自動化對品質會有影響。」
釀好的酒還必須存放半年「純化」後，才能拿到市面上販售。
轉到包裝線，軌道上的高梁酒瓶匡噹匡噹地排列，接著會經過兩排發光的白色背板，讓員工檢視酒內是否含有雜質。
一瓶酒會通過四個人的雙眼，一天八小時下來，就必須檢查一萬八千瓶的高粱酒。
需要大量人力的工廠，是金酒數十年來的根基。
金酒年年營收成長、獲利高，但吳秋穆仍然很憂心，「高粱酒靠在地天然資源製作出來，並不難，但我還能賣多久？」
於是，金酒開始著手為老酒裝新瓶，吸引年輕與白領階層。
老酒新裝搶年輕市場
去年開始，吳秋穆在公司內部成立新產品會議。
因為大家白天忙碌，所以高階主管利用下班時間，針對某一個新品的酒瓶、口味一再挑剔。一週至少有三次會議。
二○一一年到今年，吳秋穆帶頭開發將近三十三款新品。行銷也更加活潑，搭配電影、戲劇曝光。
選擇偶像劇的原因是，「現在年輕人喝不習慣高酒精濃度的酒品，我們正嘗試與他們溝通，」吳秋穆解釋。

去年，歌手蕭敬騰主演的《殺手歐陽盆栽》，金酒便推出紀念酒款。今年秋季即將上檔的偶像劇《戀夏三十八度Ｃ》，在金門拍攝，金酒也推出限量三十八度高粱酒配合銷售。
「高粱酒最大的問題，是飲用者年齡偏高，」台酒流通事業部副總蔡秋桂，指出金酒與台酒的共同問題。
她並分析，國內白酒品牌更須面對國際性洋酒商的競爭。因為台灣近年飲酒趨勢，已逐漸轉向葡萄酒及威士忌酒。
金酒在台灣地區的經銷商，也配合推出廣告行銷。
二○○四年，維他露成為五十八度高粱酒的經銷商。二○一○年十月，黑松拿下三十八度高粱酒的經銷權。
五十八度高粱酒一向訴求「酒厚，感情才有夠」。黑松接手三十八度高粱酒後，拍攝年輕上班族在工作與生活上的挑戰廣告，連結到新品牌形象「給願意挑戰自己的人」。
「黑松幾乎可說是把三十八度金門高粱酒，當成自己的品牌來經營，」黑松酒類事業部經理王銘泉說。他們先後拍攝五支以上形象廣告，拓展消費者市場。
去年金酒總營收成長近一成，台灣地區的兩大經銷商，總營收高達七十五億元。吳秋穆分析，最主要是白領階級購買新品數增長。
陸客必買伴手禮
除塑造新形象有成，金酒另一大成長動能來自陸客市場。
以金門地區而言，去年高粱酒年銷售額大約三十八億元，相較前幾年整整多了十億元。

最主要是去年陸客自由行開始實行，搭配小三通，金門水頭碼頭每年帶來超過一百五十萬人次陸客。
「價格便宜、加上陸客口耳相傳，金門高粱就成為必買的伴手禮，」昇恆昌營業企劃部副理曹惠鈞分析，金門高粱酒是陸客到免稅店購買的第一選項。
下一步，吳秋穆希望將金酒推至像是大陸茅台等級的市場價格。
「茅台和我們年產量差不多時，產值是我們的八到十倍，」吳秋穆略為激動地說。
今年二月，金酒調漲六％的價格，是十七年來首度調價。「金酒要長期經營，要看獲利，不能只看營收，」吳秋穆強調。
漲價，不只為了提高獲利，也為不被市場需求逼著走。
「因為消費者有囤積的心理，現在很容易供不應求，」昇恆昌營業企劃部副理曹惠鈞觀察。
消費者囤積，讓去年產量已達兩千五百萬公升的金門高粱酒仍然缺貨，但產量已比前年高出一千萬公升。
居民、盤商大賺「囤積財」
原因在於金門當地居民持有「菸酒牌」，可以在每年三節時，以四千八百元買到一打高粱酒。這些每年特惠的酒，成為當地居民的另一種「財富」。
「在金門，不一定每個人都喝酒，但一定每家都囤酒，」一名廖姓計程車司機說。
走進金城鎮老街，十幾間金門本地居民開的店內，排放各種不同年份、瓶型的高粱酒。店員指著一瓶民國六十八年的酒說，「幾百塊錢的酒，現在要賣上萬了。」

除當地居民，更有盤商囤酒以翻倍價賣到中國。
早在二○○四年，金酒就是第一個在廈門、泉州等地設立多家專賣店的業者。去年廈門子公司的營收約八億元，相較前年，營收成長率高達八○％。
但吳秋穆估計，加上從台灣與金門本地平行輸入到大陸的量，可能至少有四十億元，佔金酒總營收近三成。
因為金門高粱價格較中國白酒便宜，賣到中國的訂價可以翻三、四倍，所以除觀光客每次攜帶回去販售外，許多盤商便積極囤酒賣到中國。
發展大陸市場是金酒的重要目標，吳秋穆開始擬定產品區隔策略。
例如，在金門地區銷售的酒品是六百毫升，同款酒在大陸就只販售五百毫升。去年光是在大陸，金酒就投入三億元拍攝廣告行銷，主打當地販售的酒品。
這些策略雖緊迫，但金酒身為公營單位，辦事效率往往受採購法限制。
去年金酒推出的「鴻福百壽酒」，紅色的陶瓷瓶身鑲金，上頭牡丹花栩栩如生。這款民國百年紀念酒由藝人江蕙代言，推出限量兩千瓶，半小時內就銷售完畢。但吳秋穆指著它苦笑說，「我只給它打七十分。」
產品的成本、品質，金酒往往不能完全掌握。採購前的公告期及採購後的行政流程，也總是拖累上架時間。
現在吳秋穆參與經建會「白酒產業發展專案」規劃，討論改善採購法，希望盡力補足剩下的三十分。

「賣酒不只是賣一瓶酒，一定要注入文化，它才會有生命價值，」要求完美的吳秋穆，正帶領金酒掙脫老企業的束縛，換上新裝。

A GUIDE TO JAPANESE ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES ]ade in Heaven - Cups for All Occasions

E-mail Newsletter "Highlighting JAPAN"
http://www.gov-online.go.jp/eng/publicity/book/hlj/index.html
---------------------------------------------------------------
No. 56 (September 3, 2012)  

<< COVER STORY >>  日本的酒文化  pp. 5-31

[ Kampai! -A GUIDE TO JAPANESE ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES ]

- Special Brews

- Mariages Made in Heaven

- Cups for All Occasions

台灣開發出的老人用米

Taiwan develops soft rice for the elderly 

"We've developed the rice with the elderly consumers in mind to make the rice taste very soft and a little sweet. It also gives a stable yield and can be stored for a long time," said researcher Chang Su-jeing.

NEW YORK DAILY NEWS

Friday, August 24, 2012, 1:22 PM

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Read more: http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/health/taiwan-develops-soft-rice-elderly-article-1.1143700#ixzz24WfhUJX8

White House Honey Ale

ale[ale]

• レベル：社会人必須
• 発音記号[éil]
• 
  

[名]

1 [U][C]エール（ビールの一種；約6％のアルコール分を含む）；((英古風))（一般に）ビール（▼beerより上品な言葉）

small ale
弱いエール

Good ale will make a cat speak.
((ことわざ)) 上等のエールには猫さえ口をほぐす.

2 ((英))（エールを飲んで楽しむ）村祭り.

White House Honey Ale

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Barack Obama and Dakota Meyer drinking White House Honey Ale on September 15, 2011

White House Honey Ale is the first beer known to have been brewed in the White House.^[1] The process began in January 2011^[2] at the request of President Barack Obama who purchased the homebrewing kit using his personal funds.^[3] It includes a pound of honey collected from beehives on the South Lawn.^[4] The chefs at the White House are said to use "traditional methods" to brew the beer, before it is bottled and labelled with a customized logo. The logo features a line drawing of the White House on a maroon background encircled in yellow.^[5]

A bottle of White House Honey Ale

The beer has been brewed for various events held at the White House. A Super Bowl party, attended by nearly 200 guests including acquainted celebrities and members of the U.S. Congress, was one of the first events where the ale was served.^[5] Nearly 10 US gallons (38 L) were produced for the party, with around 90 to 100 bottles available.^[1] Some bottles were also brewed for St. Patrick's Day. On September 15, 2011, former United States Marine Corps Sergeant Dakota Meyer was the recipient of the Medal of Honor at the White House. Earlier, when informed of his award over the phone, he requested to share a beer with President Obama. The president accepted the offer and they each drank a bottle of the ale on the patio outside the Oval Office.^[3]
As of 2012, two styles have been brewed in addition to Honey Ale: White House Honey Blonde Ale and White House Honey Porter.^[6]
On August 21, 2012, at least two Freedom of Information Act requests were sent to the White House seeking the recipe of the White House Honey Ale from California attorney Scott Talkov and Texas attorney Brodie Burks, both home brewers.^{[7][8][9][10]}
Former president Thomas Jefferson, who lived in the White House between 1801 and 1809, is known to have brewed beer himself, particularly after his retirement. He has been called "America's first microbrewer", but there is no evidence that it happened within the White House.^[1]

References

1. ^ ^{a b c} Kitsock, Greg. Beer with presidential aspirations. The Washington Post. February 22, 2011. Accessed September 18, 2011.
2. ^ The Obamas Make History With Homebrewed White House Honey Ale. Obama Foodorama. March 1, 2011. Accessed September 18, 2011.
3. ^ ^{a b} White House brewing its own beer. CBS News. September 16, 2011. Accessed September 18, 2011.
4. ^ Crugnale, James. Obama Homebrews White House Honey Ale For Medal Of Honor Recipient. Mediaite. September 16, 2011. Accessed September 18, 2011.
5. ^ ^{a b} Wolf, Z Byron. A White House Brewery? White House Honey Ale. ABC News. February 7, 2011. Accessed September 18, 2011.
6. ^ Murgai, Puja (March 26, 2012). "Home brewing the toast of the Beltway". Politico.com. Retrieved April 22, 2012.
7. ^ Marin Cogan (August 22, 2012). "The People Demand Answers (About What Exactly Is In The White House Homebrew)". gq.com. GQ.
8. ^ David Minsky (August 23, 2012). "Help Brewers Obtain The White House Beer Recipe, Sign the Petition". MiamiNewTimes.com. Miami New Times. Retrieved August 23, 2012.
9. ^ Kimberly Pierceall (August 24, 2012). "FOIA: Riverside lawyer seeks Obama’s beer recipe". PE.com. The Press-Enterprise. Retrieved August 24, 2012.
10. ^ Lesley Ciarula Taylor (August 24, 2012). "Obama’s suds recipe brews up a honey of a popular movement". TheStar.com. The Star. Retrieved August 24, 2012.